I’m currently testing a new design for Courtney (Tinderbox), and she is amazing at adding small details and techniques to her patterns that really optimize the fit for all body types. This time, she included darts as a method to ensure a well-fitting top! I’ve got a long way to go until finishing this pattern, so you have to wait a little bit longer for that final reveal, but I couldn’t wait to talk more about this technique.

• Fitted upper garment pattern (e.g., blouse, fit-and-flare dress)
• Method of alteration (e.g., sewing machine, knitting needles/crochet hook)

The principle behind darts is that it takes a flat piece of fabric and gives it depth/dimension. Sometimes this is done by removing a ‘triangle’ of fabric under each breast and sewing the edges together to make a ‘cone’ shape. If you get really technical, the location, shape. and dimensions of the triangle can be catered to each individual, allowing for the perfect fit for each wearer. For example, darts can also be added on the side of a shirt (e.g., extending from the armhole) for a similar impact. Because there is so much variation for how darts can be done, I decided against adding a link for a tutorial this week.

In Courtney’s design, the darts for the breasts/waist are shaped by completing decreases that line up on two separate diagonal lines as the rows progress. I kept track of my decreases by adjusting the number of stitches between the decreases, starting with 40 stitches between the decreases, then 38 stitches, followed by 36 stitches, and so on. I found that counting the stitches between the decreases ensured that my two diagonal lines remained straight and the shaping effect was maintained.

I will say that while I had noticed seams under the breast or extending from the armpit before when previously shopping for tops, I never gave them much thought until I took a pattern drafting class. This is why I love crafts so much! It’s so neat to learn more about how every day things work, and it’s fascinating to be able to customize clothing to a specific body. I’m really hoping to carve out some time to explore sewing in the future since it has a different versatility to it than knitting or crocheting, but it seems like I always have too many interests and not enough time. Fingers crossed I’ll be able to make it happen in the near future though.

Until next time, happy crafting!