#109 – RYAN Cardigan

When my friend Ryan asked me to make her a full-length cardigan, I was really excited. I’d never tackled anything with sleeves before, and I loved the idea of a robe-like cardigan that would be extra warm and cozy in the winter. Ryan may have had to wait patiently for this cardigan, but I hope she likes it as much as I do!

  • 7.5 skeins of Lion Brand Yarns Heartland — a worsted (4) weight yarn (above: Mammoth Cave)
  • Size H (5.00 mm) hook
  • Size J (6.00 mm) hook

Pattern by tick-tock hobbies

(abbreviations: SC = single crochet; HDC = half-double crochet; HHDC = herringbone half-double crochet; INC = two herringbone half-double crochet into a single stitch)

BACK PANEL (size XS)

  1. Using the 5.00mm hook, chain-eleven. Starting in the second stitch from the hook, HDC in each stitch across the row. (10 stitches)
  2. Chain-one and turn. Starting in the second stitch from the hook and working in the back loop only, HDC in each stitch across the row. (10 stitches)
  3. Repeat step 2 fifty-three more times.
  4. Switch to the 6.00mm hook and chain-one. Turn so that you are now working along the long side of the ribbed piece. SC fifty-five times, spacing it out so that there is one SC for each of the rows in the ribbed portion. (55 stitches)
  5. Chain-two and turn. These chain-stitches will count as one of the stitches in this row. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, do fifty-four HHDC across the row. (55 stitches)
  6. Repeat step 5 one hundred and twenty-seven more times. After the last row, leave a long tail for seaming together. (55 stitches)

FRONT PANELS (size XS)

  1. Using the 5.00mm hook, chain-eleven. Starting in the second stitch from the hook, HDC in each stitch across the row. (10 stitches)
  2. Chain-one and turn. Starting in the second stitch from the hook and working in the back loop only, HDC in each stitch across the row. (10 stitches)
  3. Repeat step 2 thirty-eight more times.
  4. Switch to the 6.00mm hook and chain-one. Turn so that you are now working along the long side of the ribbed piece. SC forty times, spacing it out so that there is one SC for each of the rows in the ribbed portion. (40 stitches)
  5. Chain-two and turn. These chain-stitches will count as one of the stitches in this row, which means that in following rows, the first worked stitch will take place in the top of this chain. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, do thirty-nine HHDC across the row. (40 stitches)
  6. Repeat step 5 one hundred and four more times. (40 stitches)
  7. Chain-two and turn. Starting in the FIFTH stitch from the hook, HHDC across the row. (39 stitches)
  8. Chain-two and turn. Starting in the FOURTH stitch from the hook, do 37 HHDC. Do not work into the previous row’s chained-stitches. (38 stitches)
  9. Alternate between steps 7 and 8 nine more times. (37 and 36 stitches / 35 and 34 stitches / 33 and 32 stitches / 31 and 30 stitches / 29 and 28 stitches / 27 and 26 stitches / 25 and 24 stitches / 23 and 22 stitches / 21 and 20 stitches)
  10. Chain two-and turn. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, HHDC across the row. (20 stitches)
  11. Repeat step 10 one more times. Leave a very long tail for seaming together. (20 stitches)
  12. Repeat steps 1 to 11 again for the other panel.

SLEEVES (size XS)

  1. Using the 5.00mm hook, chain-eight. Starting in the second stitch from the hook, HDC in each stitch across the row. (7 stitches)
  2. Chain-one and turn. Starting in the second stitch from the hook and working in the back loop only, HDC in each stitch across the row. (7 stitches)
  3. Repeat step 2 eighteen more times.
  4. Switch to the 6.00mm hook and chain-one. Turn so that you are now working along the long side of the ribbed piece. SC twenty times, spacing it out so that there is one SC for each of the rows in the ribbed portion. Slip stitch to the top of the chained-stitches. (20 stitches)
  5. From this point on, you will be working in the round. Chain-two and turn. These chain-stitches will count as one of the stitches in this row, which means that in following rows, the first worked stitch will take place in the top of this chain. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, do nineteen HHDC around the circle. (20 stitches)
  6. Repeat step 5 two more times. (20 stitches)
  7. Chain-two and turn. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, *do three HHDC. INC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * four more times. (25 stitches)
  8. Repeat step 5 two more times, but with 25 stitches in each round. (25 stitches)
  9. Chain-two and turn. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, *do four HHDC. INC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * four more times. (30 stitches)
  10. Repeat step 5 four more times, but with 30 stitches in each round. (30 stitches)
  11. Chain-two and turn. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, *do five HHDC. INC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * four more times. (35 stitches)
  12. Repeat step 5 four more times, but with 35 stitches in each round. (35 stitches)
  13. Chain-two and turn. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, *do six HHDC. INC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * four more times. (40 stitches)
  14. Repeat step 5 four more times, but with 40 stitches in each round. (40 stitches)
  15. Chain-two and turn. Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook, *do seven HHDC. INC in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * four more times. (45 stitches)
  16. Repeat step 5 thirty-four more times, but with 45 stitches in each round. Leave a long tail for seaming together at the end! (45 stitches)
  17. Repeat steps 1 to 16 for the other sleeve.

EDGING

  1. When seaming the pieces together, it is recommended to leave the bottom twelve inches (or about the distance from the knee to the end) of the panels unjoined to have a “slit” for easier movement. I also recommend seaming all the pieces while the cardigan looks inside out, as it will help hide the seam when it is worn the right way. Similarly, for the sleeves, check to make sure that the “herringbone” appearance is on the inside while seaming, so that it faces outwards when worn.
  2. After seaming, start at the bottom of one of the inside edges of the front panels, and HDC all the way around the cardigan. This will clean up the edges and smooth out the look of the “v” at the top of the cardigan. As a rough estimate, one HDC per row works fairly well.

The most noticeable thing about this cardigan is the size. The fact that it is full-length and ends just above the ankles means that it took a long time for me to make each panel. At times, it felt like I was making three mini blankets! In fact, apart from my previous blanket projects, this was the largest project I had ever worked on. As a result, I don’t think I would want to make this cardigan again (unless someone really special asked me), just because of the time involvement.

My favourite part was definitely experimenting with sleeves. I had so much fun testing the increases and working with the shaping, and I am so happy with the way they turned out. I do wish that I had created slightly longer cuffs to match the ribbing on the bottom of the cardigan, but overall, I think this cardigan fits really well!

I love the drape of this yarn, and it is really warm when worn due to the thick nature of the Heartland yarn and the snugness of the stitches. I debated adding buttons, but I think it looks better loose and open.

I learned so much from this project, and I can’t wait to push myself more in 2018 by trying new things and learning new techniques.

Until next time, happy crafting!

This pattern is an original pattern by June Cheung at Tick-Tock Hobbies – please do not claim this pattern as your own or reprint it on another site or any other format. If you want to share this pattern (and I’d love it if you do!), just link to this pattern and give me the proper credit. You may keep a copy of the pattern for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell this pattern. Permission is NOT granted for any finished products to be sold for profit, or for mass production or for factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you so much for your respect and understanding!

6 thoughts on “#109 – RYAN Cardigan

    1. Hey Andree!
      I would say that XS is closest to a size 0 or size 2. For reference, I am 5″1 with a small build, and so is the friend that I made this for. However, this pattern is also super easy to modify! For the back panel, just make sure it is wide enough to cover your back, and the number of stitches per row is also the number of rows you will need to do in the ribbing. (For example, if the back panel needs to be 60 stitches wide, I need 60 rows in the ribbing) For the side panels, I would make them between 2/3 and 3/4 the width of the back panel. (For example, I had 55 stitches in my back panel, and 40 stitches in each side panel.) I hope that makes sense! If you have more questions, please let me know!

  1. Beautiful cardigan.😍😍 Love the hdc ribbing and use of hhdc. Colour is nice too. I wanna make one for myself in size M and I can modify. But am not understanding “Starting in the fourth stitch from the hook”. What does that mean? Skip first 2 sts and 2 chs and work in 3rd hdc?? Please help

    1. Sorry for the confusion! What I meant was to skip the two chain stitches AND the last HDC from the previous row, and begin working in the previous row’s second last HDC. I hope that helps !

    1. Hi Rachael! Unfortunately, I never got around to grading this pattern for different sizes, and I’m unable to definitively give you the instructions for other sizes. Like I said in an above comment, you could try to modify it based on your own body if you felt comfortable enough to do that. You could make the back panel to match the desired size, and then adjust the stitch count of the side panels to be between 2/3 and 3/4 the width of the back panel. For example, I had 55 stitches in my back panel, and 40 stitches in each side panel. I’m so sorry I can’t be of more help to you!

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